A Healthier, Happier Lawn
With Yard Guard!

When Will My Weeds Go Away?

So, you just signed up for a Yard Guard lawn care program—woohoo! You’re probably thinking, “Awesome! My weeds will vanish, and my lawn will be the greenest one on the block after just one treatment… right?”

Well… not quite. Let’s chat about what to expect, especially when it comes to those pesky weeds.

Timing is everything when it comes to weed control.

Managing weeds isn’t a one-and-done deal—each season brings different challenges. Here’s what you can expect throughout the year, based on the timing of your Yard Guard Lawn Care applications.

Spring Weeds (May – June) | Application 2 of 5
In the spring, when we’re mostly addressing dandelions and clover. You’ll typically see broadleaf weeds begin to desiccate (dry up and curl) within 7 days of treatment.

Dandelions: These will start to curl up within 2-3 days. Typically we can address about 99% of the spring population on the first application.

Clover: Clover is a bit more persistent. You’ll see a noticeable reduction after the first treatment, but complete control may take a couple of years depending on lawn conditions and follow-up care.

Summer Weeds (July-mid September) | Application 3 of 5
In the summer, we’re still addressing some dandelion and clover presence, but are starting to move on to the tougher weeds to manage, including thistle, bindweed, creeping bellflower and black medic, just to name a few! As with the spring, you’ll usually see them curl up around 7-10 days, sometimes the heat can make it go a bit longer.

Thistle: This is a rhizomatous weed, which means it spreads via its roots and can be very difficult to control, especially if it’s been allowed to go uncontrolled for a while. We can absolutely reduce the population and take care of it, but if you have a lot of thistle growth, it can take years to fully eradicate them.

Bindweed: Also rhizomatous and well known for its pretty white and pink flowers that sprout when it’s doing well (also likes to wrap around your ornamentals in your landscape beds or to climb up fences). Typically after the first treatment, you’ll see this weed start shriveling up, but the second year of your services, you’ll see that it’s well managed in the lawn.

Creeping Bellflower: This weed is quite a challenge and is typically seen in some of the older neighborhoods of Bozeman, Livingston and Belgrade. I had it everywhere at my house when I lived near downtown Bozeman. Unfortunately, if you do have this, you’ll never see it fully go away. The best thing you can do is to be on an Organic or Blended Organic lawn care program so that you’re helping the grass roots choke out invasive weeds on it’s own. You can also dormant seed in the fall to add more grass to hopefully continue to choke it out.

Black Medic: commonly confused with Clover, this will typically start to pop out in the late spring and continue through the summer. Our first application of weed control will typically have the curling up and you should see that it’s under control by the second year of your lawn care service.

Fall Weeds (Late-September – October) | Application 4 of 5

In early fall, we switch up our weed control formula to give a final punch to stubborn summer weeds like thistle, bindweed, and creeping bellflower. These weeds are moving energy into their roots for winter, which helps carry the treatment deeper into the plant.

Usually, you’ll start to see twisting of the weeds by 14 days.

You’ll see the same weeds during this timeframe as you do in the summer, but may see the dandelions come back as the nights get cooler.

Fertilizer Applications | Early Spring and Late Fall
Applications 1 and 5 – done in early spring and late fall – focus on giving your lawn a big boost of nutrients through fertilizer. These two treatments are actually the most important in the entire program… and also the most commonly skipped.

A lot of people think weed control alone is the magic fix. It’s not. Weed control definitely helps us get ahead of things, but fertilizer is what makes your lawn strong, healthy, and naturally weed-free.

When your grass is thick and well-fed, it starts to outcompete weeds all on its own, meaning weed control becomes less and less necessary. In fact, my own lawn doesn’t even need weed control anymore. I just use our organic fertilizer, and it thrives because it’s so healthy.

Depending on the application and season, you’ll usually start to see weeds curling up within 7–14 days after a treatment. If that doesn’t happen—no worries! Just give us a call and we’ll come back to spot-spray those stubborn areas.

Here’s a quick outlook:

Year 1: Expect around 85% weed control on the varieties already germinating in your lawn.
Year 2: That typically jumps to 95%+, assuming you’re also on top of proper watering and mowing.

3 Mowing Tips to Keep Your Grass Greener on Both Sides

Now that spring has sprung and everything is beginning to bloom, we hope you were able to get in one good close cut to rid your lawn of its dormant brown blades. If not, it’s not too late to start a regular mowing schedule to get you grass in tip top shape this season.

As you prepare for greatness, there are three things that we want you to keep in mind for each mowing session: keep your deck high, more frequent cuts, and sharp blades. Focusing on these three things, along with a great watering schedule and the added bonus of our lawn care services, will be all you need this season to keep your lawn vibrant and green as it continues to grow.

Keep your mower deck high
Leaving your grass to grow too long can create a breeding ground for pests as well as fungal issues caused by a lack of air circulation in densely packed grass. On the other hand, cutting grass too short leaves it vulnerable to weed infestation, drought, and diseases. Removing more than ⅓ of the height of a blade of grass at one time not only stresses the grass, but it also leaves the grass with too little surface area for it to photosynthesize. This is known as the “one-third rule,” and in order to make sure you only cut ⅓ or less of your grass blade each time, your deck needs to be set high. Depending on the type of mower you have, your deck should be set to a height that will keep your grass blades between 3 ½ to 4 inches high after trimming. This is the generally accepted height range for grass that is neither too short nor too long.

More Frequent Cuts
Spring is the peak growing season for your lawn, so it grows back just as fast as you cut it. This alone makes more frequent cuts a necessity, but it also goes hand in hand with keeping your deck high. We know, we know. With busy work schedules and balancing every other responsibility that you have, cutting the grass more often was probably the last thing you wanted to hear. But, there’s no way around this one. If you want to maintain grass that has a healthy root system, you must cut small amounts at a time and do so more often. This is important for the one-third rule that we just talked about, as well as the fact that the roots of a blade of grass mimic the leaf that is above ground. We want to encourage a thriving root system, and this can be done by cutting your lawn more often so that you’re creating a consistent mowing height which reduces stress on the grass as well. A cool side effect of this, is the fact that these smaller clippings also decompose quicker and provide nutrients to the lawn that act as a natural fertilizer to your grass. Trimming your lawn 1-2 times per week should do the trick. As we progress into summer, this schedule will become much less frequent, and the cooler days and nights in the fall will start to push more growth for these cool-season Montana grasses.

Sharp blades
The sharper the blades, the cleaner the cut! Plain and simple. If your blades are dull or they haven’t been replaced in a while, this may be the reason why your grass is yellow. Dull blades rip and tear at your grass instead of clipping it neatly and evenly. These ragged edges are now susceptible to disease and dehydration. Make sure your blades are up to par before every mowing session to prevent these tears and the yellowing that is sure to follow.

Now that you have these tips in your back pocket, the next steps would be to add in a consistent watering schedule and supplement with nutrients from one of our programs. Reach out to us to see what else you could be doing to get your lawn a cut above the rest.

Liquid Aeration

If you’ve been keeping up with the blog (which we know you have because you love it here :)) then you already know a little bit about aeration. Whether you aerate mechanically, with a liquid solution, or a mixture of both, aeration can be a major component to maintaining a lush, green lawn. There’s a reason golf course greens aerate once a month in the summer! Today we’re going to dive deeper into the liquid aeration that we offer here at Yard Guard, also known as our Compost Tea. We’ll give you the “tea” on what it’s made of, where we get our locally sourced ingredients, why we recommend this treatment, and how often.

General construction, playful kids and pets, and everyday use (anything as simple as walking on your grass) compacts your soil. Compacted soil reduces the ability for oxygen, water, and nutrients to get to your grass’s roots. The best way to decompact the soil is through mechanical or liquid aeration. While mechanical aeration pulls out plugs to decompact the soil and can leave your lawn looking like your dog gifted you with forbidden chocolate, liquid aeration is a much less invasive process. Liquid aeration uses a solution comprised of acids and carbon that work together to make small air pockets in compacted soil. These air pockets allow oxygen and nutrients to penetrate to the root zone of the soil to nourish your grass’s roots and give your grass a fighting chance against weeds, pests, and diseases.

Compost Tea is how Yard Guard does liquid aeration. We start with locally sourced compost from YES Compost. YES Compost redirects food waste that would normally be dumped into the landfills and uses worms to transform it into organic matter that is packed with nutrients and beneficial microorganisms. We then take this compost and blend in premium worm castings (also sourced from YES Compost) and extract the best parts by brewing a concentrated elixir that is packed with fungal acids, humic acids, amino acids, and micronutrients. Not only does this liquid brew nourish your soil, but it also aerates it, introduces helpful bacteria that strengthen the existing microbial community, and restores the missing organic material that is causing those stubborn brown and yellow patches that we all hate. It changes and improves the structure of the soil while also allowing for better water and nutrient absorption that reduces the need for excessive watering. Compost Tea is the sustainable, minimally invasive, and chemical free way to introduce beneficial microbes that strengthen the soil while fostering a safer environment for your family and pets.

Now that we’ve given you the rundown on how we do liquid aeration and hopefully answered any questions you may have had about what you can do for your lawn, here is our recommendation. We recommend aeration on a yearly basis. Especially Liquid Aeration. We also recommend pairing our Blended Organic lawn care program with Liquid Aeration for the best results that will get you on a quick path to repairing your soil organically and keeping your grass green and weed free.

Yard Guard’s Guide to March Lawn Care

Yard Guard’s Guide to March Lawn Care

From Snow to Spring
Montana’s snow is melting, and the promise of spring is in the air. At Yard Guard, we love our snow—but we love our lawns even more! This blog will help you understand what to expect as your lawn transitions from winter to spring. With Yard Guard’s Guide to March Lawn Care we’ll cover mowing in the spring, vole damage, and snow mold, as well as how spring fertilization can set your lawn up for success.

Snow on Your Lawn
As spring approaches, it’s important to consider how winter’s heavy snowfall has affected your lawn. Some common issues include melting out, vole damage, and snow mold.

If you didn’t know, your lawn essentially hibernates over the winter. The grass stops growing actively, turns brown, and shuts down its leaf crowns to conserve energy. Snow can act as an insulator, preventing freezing temperatures from penetrating the root system and hydrating the soil as it melts. However, prolonged snow cover can also create conditions for mold growth and rodent activity.

Vole Damage
With the heavy snowfall Montana experienced this winter, vole populations are likely thriving—which means increased damage to lawns and landscapes. These small rodents tunnel under the snow, feeding on grass and creating unsightly trails and bare patches.

While eliminating voles entirely can be challenging, there are some effective preventative measures. Protect your trees by placing mesh guards around the bases to prevent girdling. Additionally, setting mouse traps along their trails can deter them from returning. Fortunately, grass damaged by voles typically recovers with time and proper lawn care.

Snow Mold
Snow mold is a common lawn issue caused by prolonged snow cover, particularly on the north side of properties. It presents as straw-colored or pink circular patches in the grass. In severe cases, the affected areas can become matted.

This fungal disease thrives in cold, damp environments. Wet leaves, excessive mulch, and tall grass left untrimmed before winter can contribute to the problem. While fungicide treatments are available, they are most effective as a preventative measure. The best way to manage snow mold is by raking the affected areas, removing debris, and exposing the spores to air. Another common cause of snow mold is road salt from shoveled snowbanks, which can stress the grass.

First Mow of the Season
As the snow recedes and the ground begins to thaw, the first mow of the season is a crucial step in your lawn’s spring revival. Mowing helps promote even growth and removes any lingering debris. This is also a great time to seed any bare spots in your lawn.

It may be tempting to start mowing right away, but patience is key. Ensure the grass is completely dry and that temperatures are consistently around 40°F. Mowing frozen grass can break the blades, leading to dead spots. Even walking on frozen grass can leave footprints that take time to recover. Waiting for the right conditions will help your lawn transition smoothly into spring.

Fertilizing in the Spring
Finally, give your lawn the nutrients it needs with a spring fertilizer application. This will help bring the grass out of dormancy and promote strong, healthy growth. At Yard Guard, our fertilizer mixtures prioritize high-quality ingredients such as iron, kelp, molasses, humic acid, worm castings, and amino acids. Proper fertilization replenishes essential nutrients lost over the winter, strengthens root development, and enhances resistance to pests and diseases.

By following the tips in our Guide to March Lawn Care, you can create the best possible environment for your lawn to thrive throughout the spring and summer months. As March arrives and Montana’s snow melts away, it’s important to assess your lawn’s condition. Keep an eye out for signs of vole damage, snow mold, and other winter-related issues. Once the timing is right, begin with a careful first mow and consider overseeding any bare patches.

If you have any concerns or notice signs of damage, don’t hesitate to contact Yard Guard for an evaluation. We hope this blog has provided valuable insights into how snowmelt affects your lawn and the importance of spring fertilization. As your lawn awakens from its winter slumber, taking proactive steps now will ensure lush, vibrant growth for the months ahead.

Types of Grass Seed

Did you know that fall is the best time to overseed your lawn? This is considered “dormant seeding”, which means you won’t see any new growth this year. However, when the soil is warming up in the spring the seeds will start to germinate. This gives you the maximum length of growing period before weeds start to compete with the new grass. It also allows the seed to get moisture from the melting snow, since sprinkler systems aren’t turned on until later in the season. For dormant seeding, we recommend planting in October- any earlier, and the seeds may start to germinate before the snow starts, leaving the young grass susceptible to drought. While overseeding is a fairly easy process to do yourself, it can be confusing trying to determine which type of grass seed to buy. There are many different varieties out there!

Warm vs Cool Season Grasses
Lawn grasses come in two main categories- warm season and cool season. As you may have guessed, cool-season grasses are used in Montana and other northern parts of the country. They are named as such because they do most of their growing in the spring and the fall, when the weather is cool. This is why fertilizing in the spring and fall is so strongly recommended- it gives your lawn nutrients when it is using them the most. Cool season grasses are able to survive cold winter temps, while warm season grasses cannot. The latter is only used in the southern-most areas of the country.

Types of Cool Season Grasses

Kentucky Bluegrass
Kentucky Bluegrass is the most common type of grass used for lawns in our area. Unlike the name suggests, this grass is native to Europe and Asia- not Kentucky! There are a few reasons it has become such a common choice for lawns.

Appearance
It has a deep emerald green color. The blades are narrow and boat-shaped. You can typically see a distinct vein running down the middle of the blade. This grass is soft to the touch.

Pros

Grows thick and dense, creating a desirable look and feel for lawns. The narrow blades give it a soft texture which is great for bare feet and yard activities.
Spreads through its underground roots, which makes it easier for it to repair itself when damaged.
Holds up to high foot traffic.
Thrives in full sun, so it is great for lawns that do not have a lot of shade.
Very cold-hardy; can withstand the harshest temps winter throws at it.

Cons

It has a shallow root system, which makes it more susceptible to drought stress in the heat. Proper watering is very important to keep this grass looking green and lush in the summer months!
Is sensitive to soil quality and compaction. Our fertilizer programs are a great option to ensure this grass stays healthy.

Tall Fescue
Tall Fescue is another very popular choice for lawns. While the texture is less ideal for lawns than bluegrass, it generally requires less maintenance.

Appearance
It is a dark to medium green color. (More of a ‘classic’ green tone than bluegrass.) The blades are wide and stiff, giving it a coarse texture.

Pros

Tolerates both sun and shade.
Has a deeper root system than other grasses, so is more tolerant to drought during the hot summer months.
Is less sensitive than bluegrass to soil type and compaction, so may still thrive with less frequent fertilizer.

Cons

It has a “bunch type” growth pattern, which means it spreads by growing above ground. Because of this, it does not easily repair itself when damaged. It may need overseeding each year in high traffic areas
It has a coarser texture than other grasses, giving the lawn a less ‘soft’ feeling under foot.

Fine Fescue
Fine Fescue is similar to Tall Fescue, with a few notable differences. It has a softer feel, but is even more susceptible to damage from foot traffic.

Appearance
It is a dark to medium green color. The leaves are very narrow and fine, giving it a soft texture.

Pros

Tolerates both sun and shade.
Is tolerant of poor soil conditions and high elevations.

Cons

Does not hold up well under frequent foot traffic.
Is susceptible to some diseases and grubs.

Perennial Ryegrass
This grass is commonly found in grass seed mixes. It germinates quickly, which can provide shade for the slower-growing grasses in the mix. It is also commonly used for pasture grass and erosion control areas. However, we do not recommend using it for a full lawn as it will likely not survive the cold winters we get here.

Appearance

It has a rich green color, which is similar to Kentucky Bluegrass. It has narrow, blade-shaped leaves. The blades are shiny on the underside, which is one way you can tell it apart from Bluegrass.

Pros

Germinates and grows very quickly.

Cons

It has a “bunch type” growth pattern, which means it spreads by growing above ground. Because of this, it does not easily repair itself when damaged.
Tends to have a more patchy appearance than other grasses.
Does not tolerate extremely cold temperatures.

Conclusion
Grass seed mixes are a common option you will see available in stores. The mixes allow folks to take advantage of the benefits from multiple different grasses, mitigating some of their downsides. Depending on your preferences and lawn type, you may want to look for a mix that is dominant in one grass or another. We recommend purchasing from local stores, as they typically have higher quality products, as well as products specific to our climate. Always be sure you are purchasing cool-season grasses.

When laying down new seed, be sure that the soil is nice and loose; it is difficult for seed to germinate in compacted soil. If your soil is pretty beat down, we recommend putting down a thin layer of topsoil or mulch before spreading the seed. When Yard Guard treats lawns, we avoid spraying weed control on the new seedlings, as herbicides can hinder growth when it is young. Overseeding in the fall will give the new seeds the entire spring season to germinate and grow- leaving you with a nice full lawn by the time summer arrives. Happy planting!

Five Commonly Asked Summer Lawn Questions

We have the privilege of hearing all sorts of lawn questions about strange things people are seeing in their lawns all over the valley. We love taking great care of our customers and providing them with helpful information, so here are some of our most commonly asked questions about things you might be seeing in your turf this summer!

Dog Pee Spots

We’ll start with one that every dog lover will know: “How do I get rid of pee spots in my lawn?” Due to the high amount of nitrogen and salt in dog urine, most pups will leave discolored, bare or burnt spots on your lawn. When dogs are relieving themselves in the same spot on the lawn, the discoloration is more noticeable and may need some extra help.

The most severe cases of dog urine lawn damage result in brown spots, which are areas of dead and dying grass. Lawns that are dry or already weak and stressed are especially prone to this type of dog urine damage. Here are three tips to help bring those areas back to life!

Water is the first remedy for any pee spot. Flush the area out with an ample load of water to rinse away the excess urine salts and help your grass come back to life.
At this point, you could leave it and wait for the grass to return, but it may take a while. To give your lawn a hand, rake aside the dry grass, add a little topsoil, and overseed it with new grass seed.
Finally, to ensure the new seed sprouts, remember to water it diligently for three weeks. If you give it a drink twice daily for the first week and once daily after that, you should have new blades emerging after just 2-3 weeks.
Mow high! Set your lawnmower to its highest setting and your lawn will be stoked! (This will be a common theme for this blog.)

Grass Going to Seed
This one has been extra popular this year, with the wet spring weather we’ve had: “My lawn is full of weeds!” When we get that phone call, text or email, we might ask you to provide a photo so that we can better understand the weeds that we’re dealing with. Usually we expect dandelions or broadleaf weeds, but we also get several photos of grass going to seed. With good fertilization and lots of rain, your grass is doing what it was made to do and going to seed!

Most of our lawns are a blend of Kentucky Bluegrass and fescues- fantastic cool season grasses. These tolerate cold weather well and grow via rhizomes. Many other grasses require seed to germinate new grass, but Kentucky Bluegrass can spread and thicken by either seed or their rhizomes.

As our soil starts to warm up to a point where Kentucky Bluegrass seed would germinate, we have the perfect environment for it to take off and go to seed, thus the weedy appearance. Oftentimes, we miss it because we’re mowing before this appears, but when spring is rainy and you have awesome fertilizers being applied to your lawn, you’ve got the perfect recipe for Kentucky Bluegrass seed!

If your grass starts looking like this, no worries! A mow will take care of that and it also means that you’ve got a healthy and lush lawn! Way to go!

Dry Spots in Your Lawn
“I just have some really dry patches in my lawn!” Dry grass patches are areas of unhealthy grass. Over time, the soil in this area has begun to repel water rather than absorb it. This means the grass roots embedded within that section cannot soak up the water and nutrients they need. Eventually leading to the grass dying and the soil becoming bone-dry. There are a few reasons that you might see dry spots in your lawn that don’t seem to make any sense:

High Traffic Area– if these are areas that have a lot of pet, sport or kid traffic, it’s easy for that turf to get worn down and compact.
Pest infestations – pests and insects are not only an unpleasant thought, but once they bury under the soil, they’ll steal essential water and nutrients. Earthworms and grubs are some of the pests we see often.
Fungal diseases – we’ll talk about the one we see most often here next!
Lack of water – if it took a while to get your sprinklers rocking and rolling this year, your lawn might be extra thirsty. Even when we have rainy days in the spring, nothing’s better than a regular watering schedule!
Mowing Short – setting your lawnmower to a low-cut setting can result in shallow grass roots and more sun exposure on your soil that dries out your turf. Mowing high is one of the best things you can do for your lawn!

The good news is that you can bring these areas back to good health with some pretty easy fixes!

Aeration– if the issue is compact soil, aeration can help to break that up! Whether you do a mechanical core aeration in the fall, or use our Liquid Aeration in the summer months- breaking up that compacted soil will help!
Deep Watering- your dry spots will be extra thankful for some deep watering! Three times a week, make sure that those spots get ½ an inch of water.
Fertilizing– we always recommend our Blended Organic Program for lawns that just need some extra love. The fertilizers will help your grass to develop a nice deep root system that helps your soil retain water.
Mow High– this is one of the easiest ways to keep your turf happy and healthy!

Look at those happy roots!

Melting Out

“My lawn is patchy and yellow! What happened?” What you’re seeing is a fungal disease called Ascochyta Leaf Spot, commonly known as “Melting Out.” The fungal spores are always present in your grass, but usually don’t affect the turf unless it’s stressed and unable to protect itself. When we get heavy snows and a quick warm up in temperature, we have the perfect environment for Melting Out to occur. Things might look worse before they look better, but your lawn will recover if cultural practices can be changed (more water and mowing at the tallest height). It takes roughly 2-3 weeks of good cultural practices to start to see a change.

Helpful Tips!

Watering! As a general guideline if you have healthy soil, an inch and a half of water is recommended per week (be sure to follow watering regulations) and water in the morning between 4-8 am is the best!
Mow High! This is SO important: taller grass = more plant tissue for photosynthesis, longer roots (they mimic the top growth), shaded soil to hold more water, and GREENER GRASS – the longer the leaf blade the more green there is.
Now that you’ve put your mower to the maximum height, wait a week or two to mow. Allow the turf to come back and strengthen itself while maintaining or slightly increasing your watering schedule.
Add more organics to the soil. More organics means more healthy bacteria and fungi that can help fight diseases like Melting Out. Just like our gut, when we add the right bacteria, our immune system is typically more strengthened and can outcompete sickness. Healthy soil full of organic material holds more water! This is a great place for me to recommend our Blended Organic lawn care program and Liquid Aeration application! They’re both full of great organic material that will help your lawn come back to good health.

Aspen Shooters:

We love our aspens out here and one thing that aspens love is growing in groves! One question that we’ll start to hear is “Can you get rid of my aspen shooters?” Also known as “suckers”; I had a customer call these “quakies” last year and I had never heard that! These are also easily mistaken for weeds, and not always welcome additions to your lawn or garden beds!

There are a few things that you can do to keep these from taking over your lawn:

Remove the suckers by hand when you see them.
Mow over them or prune them.
Spray them with a selective broad-leaf herbicide to knock them back. (If you’re on one of our lawn care programs, we’re happy to do that for you!)

If you find yourself looking at your lawn and seeing any of these issues, we’d love to help!

Blog

Lawn Care

When Will My Weeds Go Away?

Colin | June 1, 2025

Signed up for a Yard Guard lawn care program? Weed control takes time—and varies by season and weed type. Learn… Read More

3 Mowing Tips to Keep Your Grass Greener on Both Sides

Sidne | April 23, 2025

Want a greener lawn this season? Start with these three simple mowing tips: keep your deck high, mow more often,… Read More

Liquid Aeration

Sidne | March 27, 2025

Curious about liquid aeration? Get the “tea” on our Compost Tea—a powerful, locally sourced solution that nourishes your soil, strengthens… Read More

Yard Guard’s Guide to March Lawn Care

Colin | February 27, 2025

As Montana’s snow melts, your lawn begins its transition into spring. Learn how to tackle common post-winter issues like vole… Read More

Types of Grass Seed

Carly | September 25, 2024

Did you know that fall is the best time to overseed your lawn? While overseeding is a fairly easy process… Read More

Explore By Tag

Lawn Care Seasonal Preparation Blended Organic Lawn Concerns Watering all

Five Commonly Asked Summer Lawn Questions

Sidne | June 28, 2024

What to do with dog pee spots. Identify whether you have weeds or if your grass is just going to… Read More

What Does “Organic” Mean for Lawn Care

Sidne | June 1, 2024

Is "organic" just a social movement? Find out what "organic" means for Yard Guard's lawn care program. Read More

Spring Lawn Problems and Best Practices

Sidne | February 27, 2024

Prepare yourself for the potential problems that your lawn may see this upcoming spring and what you can do to… Read More

1 2 →

Ready for a greener, healthier yard?

At Yard Guard, we’re excited to care for your property like it’s our own, not only with the attention we provide, but also keeping in mind the safety of the products we use and their impact on our environment.

Start Today!

Snow on Your Lawn As spring approaches, it’s important to consider how winter’s heavy snowfall has affected your lawn. Some common issues include melting out, vole damage, and snow mold.

Vole Damage With the heavy snowfall Montana experienced this winter, vole populations are likely thriving—which means increased damage to lawns and landscapes. These small rodents tunnel under the snow, feeding on grass and creating unsightly trails and bare patches.

Snow Mold Snow mold is a common lawn issue caused by prolonged snow cover, particularly on the north side of properties. It presents as straw-colored or pink circular patches in the grass. In severe cases, the affected areas can become matted.

First Mow of the Season As the snow recedes and the ground begins to thaw, the first mow of the season is a crucial step in your lawn’s spring revival. Mowing helps promote even growth and removes any lingering debris. This is also a great time to seed any bare spots in your lawn.

Helpful Tips!

Blog

Lawn Care

Explore By Tag

Ready for a greener, healthier yard?

Subscribe to our newsletter

Buy Online in 3 Easy Steps!

Fill Out The Form

Measure Your Lawn

Instant Quote!

Service Bot Instant Quote

Snow on Your Lawn
As spring approaches, it’s important to consider how winter’s heavy snowfall has affected your lawn. Some common issues include melting out, vole damage, and snow mold.

Vole Damage
With the heavy snowfall Montana experienced this winter, vole populations are likely thriving—which means increased damage to lawns and landscapes. These small rodents tunnel under the snow, feeding on grass and creating unsightly trails and bare patches.

Snow Mold
Snow mold is a common lawn issue caused by prolonged snow cover, particularly on the north side of properties. It presents as straw-colored or pink circular patches in the grass. In severe cases, the affected areas can become matted.

First Mow of the Season
As the snow recedes and the ground begins to thaw, the first mow of the season is a crucial step in your lawn’s spring revival. Mowing helps promote even growth and removes any lingering debris. This is also a great time to seed any bare spots in your lawn.